Getting ever closer to the mouth of the mighty Rio Amazonas now. Going to try and write down some rough times and costs for any other travellers thinking about doing Brazil, because the LP guide is very out of date price-wise and you can't forget distances in Brazil are big.

Rio to Salvador - R$199 on bus, or fly for R$150 + taxes (book about 1 week in advance for cheap fair)

Salvador to Maceio - R$58, about 10 hrs

Maceio to Pipa (about same price/dist as to Natal) - R$70, about 10 hrs

Natal to Fortaleza - R$58-90, about 9 hrs

Fortaleza to Jericoacoara - R$35, about 6.5 hrs

Notes about buses: you can buy tickets in the Rodovierio but the bigger cities usually have bus ticket offices closer to the city centre/tourist areas, so ask before you go all the way out (Rodos are always miles away from everywhere). Going at different times costs different amounts (we paid 90 for N-F then realized we could have got it for 58 on a promoçao if we'd left 1.5 hrs later. DOH) All of the longer bus journeys have been on quite comfortable coaches, so don't be put off by long journey times - you usually get more leg room than any british coach, more even than on economy class plane seats. Also buses are better for the environment than flying - short haul is the most environmentally damaging flight - and you get to see heaps of beautiful Brazilian countryside.


Last night in Pipa

Another hilarious one. Started out having our last supper with Jess, as she's decided to stay in Pipa, so had a nice meal for a change, then went out and met up with Gal, Ronnie, Aidan and some Irish lads for drinks. Finally found the mysterious and elusive club Babylon on the beach, which was booming out old school techno music - we danced, and danced! Poor bastards running the club had to contend with an old woman selling cheap beer right outside though - none of us bought anything inside!

After we got bored of the techno, Sal decided it was time for another night time swim, so we plunged into the sea without a moment's hesitation (or taking off any clothes) and clambered onto a rock a few meters wading away. I managed to keep my beer and money above water, despite foundering on a submerged rock, others weren't so lucky - a full pack of cigs was regrettably lost (meaning badly burning joints later), and the sea claimed one of my flip flops that I foolishly left on the beach where the waves were coming up!!

The night ended on the beach outside our pousada with a dawn smoking session and another swim. After crashing for a few hours sleep we did the usual rushing around, said our farewells to Jess and hit the road. The first leg of the trip out of Pipa (or when you're coming in) is very beautiful - a cliffside road overlooking first the sea, then a breathtaking river bay under a sun lit sky. (Sal described the clouds as looking as though they'd been "painted on"). This country really is beautiful.

Side note: on our way to our smoking sess on the beach this morning we walked past the biggest tarantula I've ever seen - thankfully it was dead! Wish I'd grabbed a photo - it was about the size of a large adult hand, and that was with its legs crawled up in "I'm dead" pose.

So we get into Jeri at 5:30pm today. 26 hours of travelling! It really eats into your time here. We might have to skip Piripiri and the national park at this rate, which would be a shame. I really must come back to South America one day with heaps more time.

Chao, amigos, and travel companions - see ya down the road...  ¶ 3:32 AM